Herways Go West: October 2015

Who needs the Sistine Chapel when you have this gorgeous place in the Doge palace in Venice?

There is a magical hour just at dusk when it seems all the colors come alive for the camera

Check out the flooding. It was so.much.fun. You buy boots and go wading. The shops close up. This lasted a couple of hours and by evening it was all dry again.

You can make your own Magnum bars! You choose what flavor of ice cream for the center, what chocolate you want to dip into and what toppings to roll it in. Don't miss this if you go to Venice!

Went up the bell tower this time. Also worth the entrance fee b/c the views are amazing. And for future reference stay at this apartment: Casa Contarina. Contact: Gino Lachin at sanmarco865@hotmail.it (tel +39 348 69 55 094)

Two days in Amsterdam. Rented bikes. The way to get around in this city.

The magic hour again for light and color. For future reference, stay at the Bridge Hotel but be sure to ask for a canal view on the top floor.

Hard to believe that Madeira hasn't been visited previously. It is indeed a unique island with so much to offer. It has the feel of the French Riviera (mountains spilling into the sea) or Amalfi coast but with more diversification. The island offers varied and unique hiking, ocean swimming and activities, and a great infrastructure in Funchal with plenty of restaurants, small cobblestone streets, shopping, etc. The food is excellent. We had fish every single night and it's extremely affordable, one night we paid 28euros for 2 fish dinners with all the trimmings. A Madeira specialty is fish with bananas. It's really quite yummy. My favorite fish dinner was grilled fish on a skewer (tuna, salmon, swordfish, prawn).

I will say that it is not an island suitable for children under the age of 14. The hikes are seriously tough and in many places dangerous for a child. Not much for bikers either, the roads have no shoulder whatsoever. Lastly, those with vertigo should be warned, roads and hiking paths can be intimidating. We lucked out with the weather but the island is lush and verdant so I imagine rain should be more the norm.

We stayed 5 nights in Funchal at the Pestana Carlton.

Loved swimming in the sea as well as the sea water pool

We were on the 17th floor. I want to add that the hotel is close enough to walk into Funchal . I wouldn't want to be any further away from the Old Town than this hotel however.

view from our balcony at the Carlton

Then rented a car for 3 days: One night in Porto Muniz (west coast) at the Aqua Natura Madeira. This is a fun place to enjoy the lava pools.

View from our terrace

Our hotel is on the far right

We snorkeled here as well

and last night in Santa Cruz(east coast) at the Hotel Albatroz Madeira.

Sea water pool

All great hotels with sea views, ocean pools, and jacuzzi/saunas.

FUNCHAL
There are two branches in Funchal and the church building is literally a 5 minute walk from the Carlton. They are an amazingly friendly people, as friendly as the Irish. The town has beautiful squares and tiled streets and a small market. Oh, and decadent chocolate ice cream (even better than the Bent Spoon) In the Old Town there were cool painted doors on the old fisherman cottages.

1419 was when Madeira was discovered. It's most famous as the home of Columbus. He married a girl from here and made his home here.

Five Outstanding Hikes (chronologically ordered)

#1. Queimedas to Caldeirao Verde: 13 km round trip and took us about 4 hours. Easy trail. We went with a tour group for the guide and the transportation provided. This is a levada walk in the middle of the island. Tropical and dense.

levada walks along the cliff edge

Cliff on one side, then the levada, then a sheer drop off on the other side

The path is most often too tight for 2 people, so somebody has to give space

Green, lush and tropical

On the way home this view from Failal

Original homes in Santana. 50% of the homes were of this style in the old days. Now just tourist attractions.

#2 . Eira do Serrado with a steep hike to the village Curral Das Freiras. 3.3km and takes 1 1/2 hour straight downhill. Powerful, majestic. Take bus#81 for a thrilling ride up (52 hairpin bends) to Eira do Serrado and catch it again in the village for the return to Funchal. This area is famous for it's chestnuts: biscuits, cakes, cookies, soup, etc all from chestnuts. Drink it with apple Brisa.

Start off the hike with a chestnut biscuit. We were offered free Madeira wine at least 3 times.

Straight downhill for hours

End the walk with a Brisa and more chestnut treats. In the background is the mountain from which we hiked down

#3. Capo de Girao and catch the Levada Norte. About 3km and straight across. This walk is among the terraces and houses of the area. Take bus#7 (catch it across from Reids Hotel). We were at the wrong bus stop and had to pay 20euros for a taxi when the bus is only 2.75 each! We did catch bus#7 in another village to get home. It runs throughout the area on the main road.

Glass bottomed terrace

Cliffs at Capo Girao

Terraced gardens

When you get lost, look for elderly English couples: most are long term visitors of over 30 years and they know their levadas!

#4. Rabacal to the 25 Fontes (Fountains). Another levada walk among lush vegetation and sensational views. Loved the waterfall at the finish. 5.2 km. I counted over 1,200 literal stair steps. At this point we had our rental car and drove from Porto Moniz. Glad we didn't meet any buses on the hairpin turns! Parked in the parking lot and walked 40 minutes on pavement to the start of the trailhead. Turns out you can pay only 5euros and get a mini bus from the parking lot!

A view while driving on the road to our destination

The 25 fountains

#5. Sao Lourenco. 3 hours total walking with LOTS of up and down. Drove from our hotel through the village of Canical to the trail head. Parking lot is the end of the road. This was our most difficult hike (or was it that we were just tired by now?) Also the most stark and dramatic scenery.